FEATURE 47 Fierce Feelings, New Wonders Featuring GRILLZ JEWELZ

A wallet chain and badge crafted in sterling silver mark the second collaboration between GRILLZ JEWELZ and WTAPS. Within these pieces, one can glimpse the artisans’ skill, aesthetic sensibilities, and their endless pursuit of craftsmanship. This unexpected joint work began with a chance encounter, sparked by an item found inside GRILLZ JEWELZ’s showcase.
Tetsuya Akiyama (hereafter “Akiyama”):“I first became really aware of WTAPS when I saw the grill-shaped incense burner they had made in collaboration with SUPREME. I was immediately fascinated by it. The shape of the grill itself was impressive, and even the color and texture of the model you insert into it were so well done that I was surprised (laughs). Even as someone who usually makes grills, I could tell that they had properly studied the real thing before creating it. I personally bought one and displayed it in the showcase of my own shop. It seems that the WTAPS staff found out about this through a mutual friend and then invited me to their exhibition. That was the very beginning.”
Akiyama:“After that, we decided to make something together, and as we talked more, I felt that we could create something really interesting. I’m not a designer. I’m more of a craftsman, so I’m better at making things than designing from scratch. Ideas need a spark or a hint. That’s why the WTAPS’ brand aesthetic as a hint for creating jewelry felt really meaningful to me. They didn’t just say, ‘Make this exactly as it is.’ After giving me the keywords, they left room for my own interpretation, so I could expand the ideas while imagining them, which was really fun.”
In the 90s, when WTAPS was deepening its ties with the New York community, the crew often visited jewelry stores that specialized in grills and similar items. The style that GRILLZ JEWELZ embodies in contemporary Japan evokes the mood of that era.
Akiyama:“Before I started making grills myself, I worked at a workshop that primarily made jewelry for women. It was there that I learned techniques for metalworking and gemstone processing. The owner of that workshop often said, ‘First, train your eye.’ He meant that you should be able to notice subtle inconsistencies that wouldn’t be apparent if a piece were perfectly finished—to develop an eye that can truly discern quality. At first, I didn’t understand what he meant, but after doing it for many years, I came to understand it myself. I trust the eye I developed there and always make sure not to overlook anything. I think that continues to form the standard of quality for GRILLZ JEWELZ and my own approach to making things.”
Akiyama:“Nowadays, it’s not unusual for idols to wear grills. The fact that it’s becoming more widespread isn’t necessarily a bad thing, but my own background is in hip-hop, and I’ve always tried to stay true to that. On the other hand, wallet chains were, until recently, not really something we would have considered, but now even US rappers use them regularly. In that sense, it’s a timely and very contemporary item. The base is a Miami Cuban link, a style similar to what’s known in Japan as ‘Kihei’. A classic, popular chain in the US. I thought it would be interesting to make a wallet chain using that style, so I suggested it myself.”
The wallet chain is entirely original. Every part from the main body to the clips at both ends was designed from scratch. While maintaining a sense of weight and solidity, it is set to a versatile length of 50cm. The links are engraved with the WTAPS logo at even intervals.
Akiyama:“The other badge originally started with the idea, ‘How about making a badge in silver?’ Honestly, my first thought was, ‘Can we even make something like that?’ But as we started creating samples, the form became appealing, and it eventually evolved into this final shape. It was a challenge based on a reference I had hardly ever seen before. There are so many things you only realize once you actually make something, and there were flashes of inspiration that wouldn’t have come from me alone, so the process of making it was truly enjoyable.”
The badge features a convex shape on both the front and back, resembling a double convex lens, with a three-dimensional design crowned by the WTAPS initial logo. This form was inspired by American candy.
Akiyama:“I’ve been making grills on my own and creating jewelry for over 20 years now. There’s a song by Ozrosaurus called ‘MABOROSI,’ and it’s about constantly chasing the visions you imagine… The lyrics say something like, ‘I don’t care who’s who, I’ve forgotten how to weave words, how to rhyme, how to write lyrics.’ I think what that means is that it’s no longer about consciously writing rap—it’s about letting whatever comes naturally flow into the music. Nowadays, those lyrics really resonate with me. I feel the same way now: I’m simply manifesting the images that exist within me, nothing more, nothing less.”
Tetsuya Akiyama Born in 1976. After acquiring skills at a jewelry workshop, he began making grills on his own and opened his own shop, GRILLZ JEWELZ, in 2005. His creations quickly gained recognition, and today, clients—including hip-hop artists—travel from around the world to his store in Okachimachi, Tokyo to place custom orders.
Photograph_Tsutomu Murofushi 
Interview&Text_Rui Konno